Adventures in Sailing

Monthly Archives: March 2017

Fernando de Noronha

15 February I awake very early maybe around 6 am. Tim still sleeps and I go outside on My MissChief we have a little morning breeze.  Come on board I think we are little out from where we drop anchor yesterday night, but because wind some time direction little changed. I come back in salon and start make tea for me and Marion and coffee for Tim. He up after I come back to salon. I told hem everything good  and we are talk, have breakfast and try make plan for today. After breakfast he go outside and see we are moving. For 1 hour boat moved for 6 kilometers  from where I see we are be in morning. We are fast  take anchor and again move boat close to all boats.


We are try call to port control but they did not answer. But couple from boat Adina call to us and ask for we drive them on our dinghy to port control too. Their motor stop working and they need help. We put our dinghy in the water and go to Adina get couple. Have waves and to port control every one come very wet. In port control Marco gift for every one coffee every time for you coming to hem. He do all paper what need and put us in his car and drive to immigration. Because I’m from Ukraine I no need visa but Tim need visa for Brazil. But we did not open visa for him before come to Island. This need go to another city in South Africa and we are be to lazy. We are thinking for couple days on the island maybe they gift for Tim visa there but immigration say no he not allowed to be on the Island. But this fine if he stay just in port for couple days. That island is very expensive for just stay in port. There need to pay for everyday boat stay there and for every person who stay on the boat too. This why we are decided just stay 2 nights. This why first day we are stay on the port. Port have 4 restaurants and 3 souvenir shops. But not just stay on the Island very expensive. Everything there very expensive too. We stay in port have dinner there and drink some local beer.

Next day we decide before we are go tomorrow we need more diesel. Take to cans with us we are decided go to the beach  not on the jetty because there more close to gas station. This to be our first time what we are coming to the beach. Tim drive dinghy and I decided jump on sand. Water  very clear and I think we are already on sand jump out and be all wet because the water is still very deep. Stay very wet maybe 20 minutes in my jeans short and t-short I understand for finish day I’m still be wet. This why I take Tim to souvenir store and buy dress.  After we see our friends from Canada who sailing on the sailboat Belafonte. We are meet them in St.Helena. After stay with them couple hours and have lunch we go buy diesel. Put diesel down to the beach on dinghy we are ready to come back to the boat. We try pushing the dingy to water but big waves push us back. This why on the dinghy start be a lot sand and water and we again be very wet. Come back to boat every one change clothes and we go again to land. This evening we are decided go to the best bar on the island. This take us maybe 30 min walk from the port to the another bar what we are every evening see with our boat.

Come down to the beach we are see there many different bars. First we are go walk and see everything what they have there. Find pizza restaurant and decided have dinner there and after go for some bar, but they start working 6 pm and our time be just 5 pm. Again go looking for some different place for have dinner little earlier. Again start rain and we try first decide where we are. Find nice bar order some drink and pizza  find they don’t have pay with credit card. They stop make for us our order because we don’t have cash. They have just 2 bank on the island and close round 5 pm. Again need go looking for bar where no need cash. Walking again start big rain and we see bank  go in there ATM machine. We are be very happy take cash and come back to same bar that we find. They just see we are back start again make our other. This nice they still remember what we order there. After we have dinner and a lot of drinks need come back to boat. Outside big rain and need walk maybe 40 minutes, 10 with them some like forest. We are start walk and see some people have taxi. So we are run to first bur what be close to us and asked them to order for us taxi. We are wait maybe 15 minutes and taxi drive us to our port. Go out taxi for a couple minutes and we are very wet again. Come to dinghy this be not very fun because motor not start maybe 10 minutes. This 10 minutes feeling like forever. Big rain and wind. Feel cold and very wet. Something wrong with that Island everyone who we know have problem with engine for dinghy. After engine start be fun drive dinghy in night and with big rain not to good to see where we are drive maybe 7-8 minutes and try fiend our boat. This good we are come back to boat good. In morning we are need start sailing and Marion fly to Natal. In morning Tim take Marion to land and after he come back we take dinghy out, up anchor and go. In front of us wait 2460 kilometers to Devil’s Island.

St. Helena

Having sailed 2800 km from Cape Town, we arrived at St. Helena on January 19 at 17:00 the port control was already closed. But still they answered and said that they will come at 9 am in the morning and that we will moor at buoys No. 15. It was funny because the number could only be seen from the top when you are  close to it. First you had to choose which one to go to first. We safely moored and rejoiced that we can rest because after 10 days of navigation.  The autopilot had stopped working and we had to steer the catamaran manually for the last 8 days. Therefore, we were very happy just because we finally can rest.

In the morning, the port control was quick, we just had to fill out a few documents, after which we had to go to the island and go through immigration. After that, we went to tour the city. The first thing that interested us was the Internet. For many, this would seem to be wrong. But almost 3 weeks we were without Internet. It was nice to set foot on the ground after a long time on the catamaran. We went to a small restaurant which is the only one in the center of the island. We found the Internet without problems, but that’s what it was not so happy about. The first Internet is very slow and the second is that it is very expensive. You buy an hour of internet and use it. You can stop it when you do not need it or turn it on. But I had time to review it and write it to friends and relatives enough.

St. Helena is a very beautiful small island. The population on it is only 3000 people (with 4000 cars). People are very friendly and greet each other absolutely. On the first day of our stay on the island, we decided to climb the Jacob’s Ladder on this staircase of 699 stairs. We did not hurry and took about 20 minutes. From the top opens a fascinating view. It is seen from the top of the whole center of the island. We were a little tired after climbing the stairs and decided not to go down to the bottom. So we stopped the first car and the woman drove us. It’s nice when there are very friendly people on the island who always try to help.

 

The first 2 days we spent in the same restaurant. Of course, they went around all open shops and a souvenir shop. It turned out there was only 1 on the island. We walked around the city for a while. We did not really know what to do as on the weekend everything is closed. One thing that is interesting on the island is that credit cards do not work. Only in the bank with a passport you can withdraw money from the credit card. But who arrived on the island on Saturday or Sunday remain without cash as the bank is closed. But in the restaurant you will be given both food and internet by writing down your name and the boat’s name on which you are and you can settle with them before sailing. We were lucky because we managed to withdraw money from the bank and we did not have to use this service. The restaurant is not expensive for food and alcohol, but they make lots on the Internet. The food is normal but after everything tried on the menu I did not find anything that was really tasty.

On Tuesday we went on a tour of the island. We saw an old volcano. The landscape of St. Helena is sublime volcanic, since it itself is the peak of a huge underwater volcano (height above the sea bottom is 4224 m, diameter of the base is 130 km).

A small area on the island is the possession of France – the place where Napoleon Bonaparte was imprisoned. Napoleon lived here under the protection of his last 5 years of life. He died in this house and was buried not far from it. The house itself is original, from those great times. The interior is a reconstruction. The fact is that after the death of Napoleon Bonaparte was buried here on the island but after 19 years his companions took the body home to France, taking with them all the contents of the house, right down to the curtains! Photographing in the house is strictly forbidden.  A very large area on which stands a house and a very large and beautiful garden. Napoleon died at the age of 51. Then we went to the grave of Napoleon. The trip took only 5 minutes drive. But then I had to go down 10 minutes downhill. Napoleon himself chose this place and bequeathed to bury him here.

“Diana’s Peak” (823 meters), is the highest point on St. Helena. To the left of it is the “Actaeon” mountain (with the Norqfol pine on top).

Today on the island live about 3000 people (with 4000 cars). The population is represented by the settlers, who are descendants of immigrants from Great Britain, Holland, Portugal, India and Africa. People hope that the airport will be open this summer. It was completed but can not be opened due to a strong wind sheer around the island, so you can get here only by sea from England or Cape Town.

It was a very interesting tour we really enjoyed. The tour started at 9 am and ended at 16 pm. We returned to the catamaran very tired.

The next day in the morning we sailed and in front of us waiting for 3200 km.